Mould removal steps in your home/ office!

We have heard the sad stories of how mould has affected many people in their homes; we have also heard about the new rental reform rules where landlords have to act when tenants inform them of any mould on site!

We wanted to share 5 natural and 5 stronger options to handle mould in your environment.

Five natural mould treatments

1) White distilled vinegar (acetic acid, ~5%)

What it does: Antifungal, penetrates porous surfaces and can inhibit/kills many common household mould species.

Best for hard and semi-porous surfaces; limited for some mould species on deeply porous materials.How to use: Use undiluted or 1:1 vinegar: water in a spray bottle, spray affected area, leave 60+ minutes, scrub and dry thoroughly. Test on painted/ coloured surfaces first (can affect finishes).Pros/cons: Non-toxic, inexpensive; not always 100% effective on resistant species.

2) Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)

What it does: Mild abrasive (helps scrub), slightly alkaline so it discourages mould regrowth; absorbs odours.

Good for tile, grout, sealed wood and bathroom surfaces. How to use: Mix 1–2 tablespoons baking soda with a cup of water in a spray bottle; spray, scrub, rinse and then re-spray and leave to dry to help prevent return. For paste: baking soda + small amount of water for stubborn patches.

Pros/cons: Non-toxic, safe around pets/children; milder than vinegar so may need longer dwell or combined approach. Guidance and reviews highlight baking soda as a safe, effective household option.

3) Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) — essential oil

What it does: Demonstrated antifungal activity in lab studies against many indoor fungi (in vitro). Can inhibit growth and reduce spore viability.

How to use: Typical DIY ratio is ~1 tsp (≈5 ml) tea tree oil to 1 cup water in a spray bottle; spray affected area and leave (do not rinse). Use sparingly, strong smell and some people have sensitivity.

Not for use where pets may ingest.

Pros/cons: Natural fungicide with supporting lab studies; essential oils can cause irritation and are more expensive.

4) Lemon juice (citric acid)

What it does: Mild acidic antifungal and antibacterial effects; leaves a fresh scent and can lighten stains. Best for small, recent patches on non-sensitive finishes.

How to use: Apply concentrated lemon juice or a 1:1 lemon: water spray, let sit, scrub and dry. Test on surfaces to avoid bleaching or finish damage.

Pros/cons: Safe and pleasant-smelling; weaker than vinegar and commercial products — best for small patches and cosmetic stain removal

5) High-temperature steam / heat (non-chemical thermal kill)

What it does: High temperatures/steam can inactivate many mould spores on surfaces (especially carpets, tiles, upholstery) when sufficient temperature and contact time are achieved. Not always effective with domestic devices , many domestic steamers may not reach the required temperature/contact time and can add moisture causing regrowth. Use carefully.

How to use: Use professional steam cleaners with documented temperatures/contact times for mould, or hire specialists for infested fabrics/carpets. Avoid using low-temp consumer steamers on porous building materials.

Pros/cons: Chemical-free; risk of spreading spores into air if used incorrectly and can raise humidity

Five chemical mould treatments

Important safety note (always show prominently): Never mix bleach and ammonia (toxic chloramine gases). Always ventilate, wear gloves and eye protection, and follow product safety data sheets (SDS). For large infestations (>10 sq ft in many guidelines) or if mould is caused by contaminated water, advise professional remediation. CDC

1) Sodium hypochlorite (household bleach)

What it does: Strong oxidiser that kills many moulds on non-porous surfaces and removes surface staining.

Recommended dilution: up to 1 cup (≈240 ml) household bleach per gallon (≈3.8 L) of water for heavy cleaning on hard surfaces (follow label and local guidance). Do not use on porous materials where bleach cannot penetrate to kill roots; bleach may only bleach the stain while spores remain.

Safety: Corrosive, fumes; ventilate, PPE. Do not mix with other cleaners.

2) Hydrogen peroxide (3–6% household or higher for professional use)

What it does: Oxidising agent , kills mould on hard surfaces and can penetrate porous surfaces better than bleach in some cases; less corrosive odour than bleach and breaks down to water/oxygen. Good for grout, tile, countertops.

How to use: Use 3% household hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle; spray, leave 10–15 minutes, scrub and dry. For tougher infestations, stronger solutions are used by professionals — follow safety guidance. Avoid mixing with vinegar (forms peracetic acid) or bleach.

3) Borax / sodium borate

What it does: Alkaline mineral salt with antifungal properties; can kill mould and help prevent regrowth when left as a residue (unlike bleach which can be rinsed away). Effective on non-porous and some porous surfaces.

How to use: Mix ~50g borax per litre of water (about 1/2 cup per litre) to make a cleaning solution, scrub and don’t rinse to leave a protective residue. Wear gloves; not safe for pets to ingest.

4) Ammonia (household ammonia)

What it does: Strong alkali that can remove mould from hard, non-porous surfaces (but will not kill mould on porous materials). It is effective as a cleaner but is unsafe to mix with bleach (produces chloramine gases).

How to use: Use diluted household ammonia solutions on non-bleachable surfaces; ventilate and wear PPE. NEVER mix with bleach. Not suitable for use on porous building materials.

5) Quaternary ammonium compounds (QACs / “quats”) and commercial fungicidal disinfectants

What it does: Widely used disinfectants (benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, etc.) formulated for mildew and mould control, used in professional and institutional products. Effective on a range of fungi when used at labelled concentrations with recommended contact times.

How to use: Use ready-to-use or diluted commercial products as per manufacturer/SDS instructions and UK/EU biocide regulations. Suitable for routine disinfection of non-porous surfaces. Avoid overuse and follow ventilation/PPE guidance.

Practical safety & use checklist (short)

• Always ventilate, wear gloves and eye protection; consider an FFP2/3 mask for heavy mould or spray work.

• Do not mix bleach + ammonia, bleach + acids (vinegar), or bleach + hydrogen peroxide — hazardous gases may form. CDC

• For porous materials (drywall, ceiling tiles, insulation) removal and replacement is often the only reliable option.

• Fix the moisture source (leaks, ventilation) — cleaning without drying will lead to regrowth. (This is the most important prevention step.) CDC